Above: vista from Kala Pattar (with Everest in the center)Next morning, I wake in the cold at 4:45 AM for the biggest day so far - the demanding climb up to Kala Pattar ("Black Rock" in Hindi) for the famed vista of Mount Everest and the other nearby giants. It's cold in the tea room. I put on my down jacket for the first time in the trek. I drink some sweet black tea while everybody assembles. Finally, we are on our way at 6 AM.
Surprisingly, it doesn't feel cold once we get moving. The hike starts out easy, but soon we are scrambling up some steep slopes. (I'm struggling with my breathing. Ever few steps upward, I need to take a pause to catch my increasingly shallow breath.) Nevertheless, I make it all the way to the top by ~7:30AM. It is bright and sunny by then, but very cold, and a vicious wind cuts across us on the peak.
I take a few photos, foolishly taking off my gloves - it soon feels like my fingers have been frost-bitten! They havent, of course, but it take a long time for them to thaw out... After a few minutes, I start a swift descent down. Going down is easy and exhilarating, and soon enough, I am back in Gorak Shep & back at the lodge. I'm down ahead of the others, so I get some food and pack up for the next hike down.
I have finally decided that I will not go back down to Lukla with the group, but rather will attempt to cross the Tcho La pass & on to Gokyo with Brian & Raj, two trekkers I had met a few days earlier. Buddha reluctantly gave his blessing for this & arranged for one of the porters to deliver my duffel bag to the lodge in Lukla. I loaded everything I needed into my day-pack (including a sleeping bag.) I was now completely self-sufficient, and ready to hike to Gokyo!
Above: with my pack & sleeping bag, everything I needed for the trek to Gokyo and beyond...
The immediate plan was for everyone to trek back down to Lobuche. Then, I'd separate from the group and join Brian and Raj for the hike to Djongla, our night's stop before attempting the Tscho La pass on the following morning. The trek to Lobuche was very straightforward. Then, after lunch, I gave Buddha money for tips for the porters & assistant guide, and headed off with Brian and Raj. The trail quickly started to climb, and conditions deteriorated - a light snow started to fall. We followed the trail along some high ridges, then dropped into a valley & back up to the lodge at Djongla. It was a tiny, cosy place. There, we met 2 other guys who were planning to join us on the trek across the pass: Justin, an American whom I had met earlier, and a young Israeli guy, Leo. After a pleasant evening, I headed to bed early - we were planning to start the following morning for the pass at ~5:30AM. I was happy - it seemed like a good group & I was confident we'd be able to conquer the pass!
