Day 6 of Trek: Lobuche (4,940m)

After our rest day in Dingboche, we're ready to push on the next morning to Lobuche, our penultimate stop before we get to Gorak Shep, and do our hikes to Everest Base Camp and Kala Pattar. It finally feels like we're getting close to the destination!

At the same time, I've been investigating the possibility of modifying my own trip - making the difficult journey across the Tcho La Pass and to Gokyo, to do the so-called "Everest Circuit" instead of just returning directly back on more-or-less the same route from Gorak Shep, with the rest of the group. Our guide, Buddha, is a bit concerned about the idea of my splitting from the group (mostly, I think, for safety reasons) but he isn't going to stop me. In addition, it appears that some other trekkers are planning the difficult trek across the Tscho La Pass, so I could possibly team up with them.

However, the immediate task is to make it to Lobuche. We start out as usual at ~8:30 am. The morning is bright and sunny. It snowed the night before, so there is blinding snow at both sides of the path. I'm having trouble with a very irritated eye, and the blinding brightness is exacerbating things. I struggle as far as our lunch spot, Thukla (picture above). After lunch, we pass the stone memorials to dead climbers - stark reminders of the risks all around in the Himalayas, even for trekkers.


Above: Lobuche, our destination for the day.

After another couple of hours, we make it to the tea house at Lobuche. For once, the tea room is crowded, with a diverse selection of trekkers. In one corner, a crazy French guy and his guide are finishing off a bottle of wine - an unusual sight in the mountains! I chat with Gary, a slightly eccentric and wild-looking American guy.

Then - suddenly - Bipina appeared to have a melt-down of some kind. She dropped her head in her hands and started to complain. (I didnt take much notice, as I'd already had a week's worth of Bipina's dramatics.) But soon after, she went outside the tea house, into the freezing afternoon, and lay down on a picnic table. A couple of trekkers came running in and said something appeared to be very wrong with her. By chance, there happened to be a doctor in the tea house (Anil, a visiting doctor from Stanford, who was spending time at the Pheriche Clinic). Bipina was brought back in to the tea house and Anil examined her. He said we was fairly sure she had HACE (High Altitude Cerebral Edema) - a very serious altitude-related ailment, where the brain swelled, and there was a very real possibility of death. He said she should be moved to lower altitude immediately but (unbelievably!) Bipina stubbornly refused. Eventually, after much persuasion, she agreed to go down to the Pheriche Clinic (~500m lower than Lobuche.) So, Buddha and one of the porters packed up her stuff and started the long walk with her back down in the freezing evening.

We stayed in the tea house a bit longer, then headed to our cold rooms for the night, all wondering about Bipina, and how serious her condition really was. Yet another wake-up call about how suddenly and unexpectedly these types of problems can arise, for anyone, at high altitude.

Days 4 & 5 of Trek: on to Dingboche (4,358m)

Outside our lodge in Dingboche

Next morning was cold and bright. I woke with a ticklish, irritating cough. Then discovered Neil was suffering with stomach problems. Everyone had some ailment, it seemed. Still, we all managed to get back on the road, heading out of Namche on a different path from the one we took for our day-hike the previous day. We passed through Khunde, and stopped at the hospital that Sir Edmund Hillary helped to establish. (After a few weeks in the area, I came to realize the huge amount Sir Ed gave back to the area, following his successful first ascent of Everest.) Further on, we stopped for lunch at Khumjung (where Hillary had also established a school for the children of the area.) Then day seemed easy so far, but we had already climbed more than 400m, to an altitude of 3,900m.

The hike out of Khumjung was steep and difficult, initially past groups of children and people harvesting potatoes, soon, on our own along a rocky path hugging the mountainside into the distance. In the distance, we could see brilliant Ama Dablam, rising above the fogs that were beginning to roll in. At around 4pm, in the foggy gloom, we arrived in the little village of Mong La, where we stopped for the night at a family-run lodge. The tea room was pleasantly warm, and the family were friendly, hanging out with us, and playing cards with some of the group. I eventually headed to bed to the freezing rooms down a treacherous rocky path (in the absolute darkness, without my headlamp, of course!)

I had another restless night, and I was eager to get up & moving at first light. We had a fairly non-eventful day's hiking, on to Phortse for lunch, then up a fairly steep incline to our day's destination, Pangboche. We were now on the main trail to Everest Base Camp (though we were still passing surprisingly few trekkers along the way.) I was cheered by the warm tea room and the surprising sight of Peets Coffee on the menu!

Peets?!

(It unsurprisingly turned out to be just regular coffee...!) And - I had my first hot shower on the mountains, my first shower of any kind in almost a week. Beans, toast and egg for lunch! Everything very good! (I even had some chang, a local milky beer-like alcoholic drink.)

Next morning's hike up to Dingboche was short. We were at the lodge by 11am, now at 4,358m in altitude -- another rest day at Dingboche, in order for us to acclimatize at this new altitude. Later in the afternoon, snow started to fall -- very unusual for this time of year, apparently.

The following day we set out on another acclimatization day-hike. There were a few inches of snow on the ground and conditions were a bit slippery, so Buddha was very cautious and soon suggested turning back. However, I wanted to push on Nangkartshang Peak so, along with Bakta, I continued to climb up. It proved to be a very difficult (and slightly dangerous) hike - but we eventually got to the top. It was exhilarating -- probably the high point of the trek so far.

Astonishing vistas in all directions, and we appeared to be at almost the same height as Ama Dablam to our left. (We werent, of course - Ama Dablam soars to 6,800m - we were just about at 5,000m!) We raced back down the snowy mountainside & back to the tea house. I felt like a conquering hero on return!

Left: Bakta & me at the top of the peak!

Day 3 of Trek: Rest Day at Namche

Next day was a "rest day" for us. Something of a misnomer, as we actually still had a two-hour hike ahead of us! (The idea, for rest days, is to spend a second night in the same location, at the same altitude, but during the day, to hike higher, then descend back down for the evening. That way, by following the "climb high, sleep low" mantra, we're helping our bodies adjust to the new, higher altitude.)

right: Everest in the distance (second peak from the right - above & left of my finger!)

That being said, one of our group, Bipina, woke feeling weak and nauseous. We started our planned hike - from Namche village up to the Everest View Hotel, where we'd get some tea and (unsurprisingly!) get a view of Everest... I found the going easy - the day was pleasant and warm, and after an initial steep section, we were walking through green meadows, and before long, we could see the Everest View ahead of us. Bipina, however, was really struggling, complaining of a racing heart-rate & general weakness, and she eventually returned down to the village, before reaching the Everest View Hotel. Our guide, Buddha, was clearly concerned about her. (Obviously, we were only 3 days into the long trek - very early to be seeing these kinds of symptoms.)

We hiked down afterwards and spent the rest of the day shopping, drinking espresso & surfing the net (just like home!) However, when I went back to my cold bed for the night, I realized again where I was. In addition, I had a fitful night's sleep -- looks like I'm coming down with something too (though it seems more like a head-cold, in my case, than any altitude-related symptom.)

Day 2 of the Trek: Namche Bazar

We were wakened at 6:30 am next morning by Bakta, our assistant guide in what would become a very predictable ritual, with sweetened black tea, followed a few minutes later with a bowl of warm water each for "washie-washie". (This was the delicate way for them to get us out of bed & on the move in the cold mornings.) Kim, one of out party, is in bad shape - she apparently suffered food poisoning the previous day (or night) and she's weak & has severe diarrhea along the way. Nevertheless, for the rest of us, the first part of the trek is enjoyable, and not too difficult. We crossed some of the high metal suspension bridges (stopping on occasion for the Dzokpio to pass...) and made it to Jorsale for lunch.

Kim was still very weak, and Buddha was discussing stopping at Jorsale for the night to give her a chance to recover. However, I was very eager to push on to Namche, as I as concerned we'd miss out on some crucial acclimatization time if we stopped at Jorsale (~2,800m vs. 3450m. at Namche).

Eventually, she did recover a bit, and we pushed on towards Namche. The way quickly got a lot steeper and wilder. (There would be no more tea houses or lodges all the way to Namche.) We passed a group of older Japanese tourists, some in their seventies & beyond, powering up the hills...! Stopping at an overlook about halfway up, we caught our first sight of Everest, a tiny peak in the distance behind some closer mountains. It still felt remote & unreal.


I continued up with Bakta, as the rest of the group dropped behind. I was feeling the effort, but trudged on for another hour or so, till he pointed out the town of Namche Bazar, arrayed in crescents above us on the hills. It was still a further stiff climb up to our lodge, the oddly-named Hotel Camp de Base, and I crashed out in the tea room on arrival... It had been a tough, eventful day, but finally, it really felt like we were in the Himalayas. The big white mountains seemed to crowd close around the town of Namche.

Headed to Lukla - Trek Begins

Next morning, we were wakened at 4:45am in order to get to the airport in time for the early morning flight to Lukla, in the Himalayas (scheduled for 6:30am). Lukla is a little Sherpa village, with an airport (an airstrip, really) that serves as the jumping-off point for most of the treks. Weather is a risk factor for these flights. Often, fog or other visibility problems, either in Kathmandu, or en route to Lukla, cause delays or outright cancellation of these flights. Fortunately for us, conditions were good, and we were in the air by 7am.

The plane is tiny, but full (16 people.) The flight is quick, out of Kathmandu and swiftly into the mountains. We seem to just skid by a few mountain passes, then come in for a dramatic, hair-raising landing in Lukla. (The entire trip took less than 45 minutes.)

After stopping at a nearby tea-house to get organized and to team up with our two porters, we are soon on our way on the first leg of the trek. It is relatively easy, with a few steep ascents, but more generally, flat or descending. About 3 hours later, we reach Phakding, our destination for the first day. We have a long, pleasant lunch in the sun - pleased with ourselves at having survived the first day. We're checked in to the curiously named Beer Garden Hotel - very simple twin rooms - a bit cold, with a minimal bathroom in the corridor. About what I expected...

Mar 9: Trek Preparation

I finally met up with Pradip (my main contact at Mountain Monarch) to get oriented and get prepared for the trek ahead. My initial contact was not impressive. He quickly went through a canned description of the planned trip in the Himalayas, and the group "tour" & pre-trip meal we'd have before heading off. However - clearly - his main concern was to get paid for the outstanding balance I owed him. In addition, as I had arrived two days early, he tacked on an additional charge of $45.00 for each of the two nights -- an outrageous charge for the hotel in question, and something he had given me no advance notice about. I was furious at this underhand manoever.

After bidding goodbye to Pradip till the afternoon (when we'd meet up with the rest of the travelling group) I met up with some older folks from England and New Zealand who had just completed the hike to Base Camp/Kala Pattar and back. They were shattered, and they had a lot of scare stories for me about the cold, the effort involved etc. At 4pm I met up with Pradip again, and with my friend Bipina & with Neil and Kim, the other trekkers, for our formal intro. We were also introduced to Buddha, who would be out guide for the trip, and we received our duffel bags. Beginning to feel a bit excited, at last...!

After getting organized, Buddha took us for a traditional Nepalese meal at a (shamelessly tourist-trap) Nepal Kitchen-style restaurant. I had my first taste of Dal Bhat, and some curious meats (wild boar?) before we adjourned upstairs to watch some Nepalese dance and have a taste of the local Raksi liquor. Good fun!

Mar 8: Kathmandu - Seeing the Sights

Monday morning, I still have some time to spare before the trek "proper" starts. I bump into Johanna, a fellow trekker at the hotel, and we decide to walk around the city and see some of the more well-known tourist attractions. The hotel manager had given me walking directions to the "Monkey Temple", Swayambhunath, so we decide to head there first.

It's a fairly straightforward walk out of town from Thamel (though the streets are hot and dusty in the morning, and things are chaotic as usual, with honking cabs and motorcycles, and the odd sacred cow(!) wandering about...) The manager gave me a tip to climb up along the streets behind the temple, and when I get closer, I see why -- the main approach is a long, very steep set of steps up to the temple complex. It's still difficult enough walking along the streets towards the back entrance. There's a fenced-off area of trees and parkland, and there are large numbers of monkeys screeching and playing all around. Once we get closer to the top, there are lots of vendors selling typical trinkets, and a large number of tourists and worshippers. There are several temples, and a golden buddha. According to one seller, the temples are sacred to both Buddhists and Hindus.


From the top, there's a good vista over the hazy streets of Kathmandu. We sonon descend down the steep front steps - hawkers on both sides all the way down. I naiively fall for one guy's shtick, and end up with my own "singing bowl", reputed to ease tension and to cure all sorts of other ailments...

Afterwards, we head for Durbar Square through some very grim and desperate-looking streets. We stumble into the square after a walk of less than half-an-hour. The place is crowded with tourists and very aggressive "guides". A 300 Rupee fee is charged. (It's a UNESCO heritage site) However, the place is very chaotic, and I was underwhelmed by the jumble of significant palaces and temples. (The constant attentions of the "guides" following us didnt help.) We eventually escaped to "Freak Street", close-by. Formerly a happening hippie stop (in the 60s and 70s), today, it's a fairly depressing, run-down street that has seen better days.

We walk all the way back to Thamel through narrow streets clogged with markets and shoppers, finally stopping at Kilroy's restaurant for some lunch. An adequate place - which we had almost completely to ourselves. I ordered a beer and the "Bookmaker" Buff steak - served on a sizzling plate, with some fries. The steak was interesting, a bit chewy, but not unpleasant.