Day 8 of Trek: Kala Pattar (5,554m)

Above: vista from Kala Pattar (with Everest in the center)

Next morning, I wake in the cold at 4:45 AM for the biggest day so far - the demanding climb up to Kala Pattar ("Black Rock" in Hindi) for the famed vista of Mount Everest and the other nearby giants. It's cold in the tea room. I put on my down jacket for the first time in the trek. I drink some sweet black tea while everybody assembles. Finally, we are on our way at 6 AM.

Surprisingly, it doesn't feel cold once we get moving. The hike starts out easy, but soon we are scrambling up some steep slopes. (I'm struggling with my breathing. Ever few steps upward, I need to take a pause to catch my increasingly shallow breath.) Nevertheless, I make it all the way to the top by ~7:30AM. It is bright and sunny by then, but very cold, and a vicious wind cuts across us on the peak.

I take a few photos, foolishly taking off my gloves - it soon feels like my fingers have been frost-bitten! They havent, of course, but it take a long time for them to thaw out... After a few minutes, I start a swift descent down. Going down is easy and exhilarating, and soon enough, I am back in Gorak Shep & back at the lodge. I'm down ahead of the others, so I get some food and pack up for the next hike down.

I have finally decided that I will not go back down to Lukla with the group, but rather will attempt to cross the Tcho La pass & on to Gokyo with Brian & Raj, two trekkers I had met a few days earlier. Buddha reluctantly gave his blessing for this & arranged for one of the porters to deliver my duffel bag to the lodge in Lukla. I loaded everything I needed into my day-pack (including a sleeping bag.) I was now completely self-sufficient, and ready to hike to Gokyo!


Above: with my pack & sleeping bag, everything I needed for the trek to Gokyo and beyond...

The immediate plan was for everyone to trek back down to Lobuche. Then, I'd separate from the group and join Brian and Raj for the hike to Djongla, our night's stop before attempting the Tscho La pass on the following morning. The trek to Lobuche was very straightforward. Then, after lunch, I gave Buddha money for tips for the porters & assistant guide, and headed off with Brian and Raj. The trail quickly started to climb, and conditions deteriorated - a light snow started to fall. We followed the trail along some high ridges, then dropped into a valley & back up to the lodge at Djongla. It was a tiny, cosy place. There, we met 2 other guys who were planning to join us on the trek across the pass: Justin, an American whom I had met earlier, and a young Israeli guy, Leo. After a pleasant evening, I headed to bed early - we were planning to start the following morning for the pass at ~5:30AM. I was happy - it seemed like a good group & I was confident we'd be able to conquer the pass!

Day 7 of Trek: Everest Base Camp (5,360m)

Above: our porter, after arriving at Gorak Shep

I wake exhausted, in my cold bunk in Lobuche - I had no real sleep. I had difficulty (real or anxiety-driven, it doesnt matter) getting full lungs-ful of air, during the night, and when I did eventually sleep, it was fitful & restless. Despite this, I was feeling ready for the hike ahead. Today, we were headed to Gorak Shep for a brief stop & some food, followed by another hike on to Everest Base Camp, the first of our objectives! If all went according to plan, we'd be at EBC by late morning/early afternoon.

There was no news of Bipina, following her scary departure down the mountain the previous evening. Buddha, our guide, was also still absent. Bakta, his assistant, took the lead, (nervously) giving us our pep-talk for the hike ahead, then led us off towards Gorak Shep. I found the hike very straightforward, and in a couple of hours, we were at our lodge in Gorak Shep. This would be where we'd spend the night - for now, however, I just had a breakfast of some boiled eggs, and got ready for the next hike on to Everest Base Camp. Lots of the people from Lobuche the previous night were in the lodge -- clearly, we were now on the main highway to EBC!

After a short break, we're on our way again. Out the back door of the lodge into a flat, snowy area in the bright sunlight. The going is easy initially, but soon, we're climbing up. The journey is a lot longer and more difficult than I expected. Every so often, we hear loud reports of rockslides and mini-avalanches in the distance. After about two hours, we get to the official Everest Base Camp spot. Just before arrival, somebody picks up a bone that was lying next to the path -- after a bit of consultation, Bakta decides it's a human arm- or leg- bone. (Surely, a climber's bone, thrown up by the relentless glacier.) After an awkward moment, we drop the bone, and shuffle on to the EBC site - a very real reminder of the reality of the Everest climb.

There are lots of people milling about -- including lots of people we recognize from the lodge on the way up. There's a makeshift sign nearby announcing Everest Base Camp. (Nothing official - it looks like it was carted up by some previous trekkers.) Nevertheless, we get some group shots on front of it, as well as some more dramatic photos with the blue of the Khumbu Ice-fall behind us.

There are no signs of any expedition in progress - no tents, porters or climbers - none of the bustle I had expected from watching various TV documentaries and reading books on the subject. We discovered later that a "real" base camp was being set up about 40 minutes further walk along the side of the glacier (in addition - the climbing season was just beginning - no expeditions were in place yet, and porters were just beginning to cart up the huge amount of provisions required for a climb.)

Something of an anti-climax, I have to say. Soon enough, we start our walk back down to Gorak Shep, and make some room for the groups of trekkers still making their way up. Back at the lodge, we settle in for the evening, after a fairly difficult day. Then, to cap off an unusual day, Bipina and Buddha walk in. Bipina seems ok - no more signs of altitude sickness (on the surface, at least.) She apparently felt fine in Pheriche, and she persuaded Buddha to bring her back up and, astonishingly, our guide agreed! I'm flabbergasted! I cannot believe she's dumb enough to risk her life (no matter how small the real risk is) for such a trivial reason. Anil, the doctor, is there too - and he also seems very surprised and concerned. Nevertheless, Bipina stubbornly refuses to stay at lower altitude - she's taking a huge risk to get to the top of Kala Pattar in the morning, a ridiculous decision, in my opinion...

Below: macho, I am, in shorts at Everest Base Camp :)

Kinabalu

I'm going to take a quick diversion away from my Everest Base Camp chronicle to give a description of my recent climb of Mount Kinabalu (and what it took to actually get to the mountain!)

Before I left, I spent a lot of time online trying to get accurate information about getting to Kinabalu National Park, and getting accommodation on the mountain. A lot of the information seemed to be conflicting and confusing, and I ended up very unsure about whether I could actually make the climb... So I'll attempt to describe how I managed to get to the mountain, and hopefully it'll be of some use to you.

I made a last-minute decision to go to Borneo, Malaysia & climb Mount Kinabalu. About 1 week before, I started making my plans. Not really an advisable way to do things because, in particular, you need to have guaranteed accommodation on the mountain before you'll be allowed to climb, and all the available accommodation is typically completely booked up many weeks in advance. Nevertheless...

The big logistical things I had to think about were:

• Flights (to Kota Kinabalu, in Malaysia)
• Transport to Kinabalu National Park
• Accommodation for the night on Mount Kinabalu. (Mandatory - otherwise, you're not allowed to climb the mountain)

Flights

I found this to be the easy bit. Air Asia, Malaysia's low-cost carrier, have frequent fairy cheap flight to Kuala Lumpur, and on to Kota Kinabalu (the closest city to Mount Kinabalu.) Depending on how far in advance you book the flights, they can be very cheap. I paid ~$100 each for flights from Bangkok to Kuala Lumpur and from Kuala Lumpur to Kota Kinabalu.

Accommodation in Kota Kinabalu

I found a very agreeable and reasonably-priced boutique hotel in the main shopping area in Kota Kinabalu - Hotel Eden 54. I paid about $35.00/night for a very well-equipped small room in a very friendly hotel. (Weirdly, many of the rooms have no windows, but there's free WiFi, and everything is spotlessly clean and modern.)

Transport to Kinabalu National Park

Kinabalu National Park is about 90km from Kota Kinabalu, but it's on a fairly well-traveled route, and there are a few different ways of getting there. I had done my research and had decided to get the public express bus to Renau & get the driver to drop me off at the park. this was a very cheap option, at about RM 15 (~$5.00). However, to get the bus, you first have to get to the main bus station at Inamam, about 10 km out of town. A bit painful. So, I stopped at the local tourist office (on Jalan Gaya, same street as Hotel Eden 54) & asked them about the options. They suggested going to the minibus station, next to Merdaka Field, about 5 minutes' walk away from the tourist office. There, you can get a shared ride in a minibus for about RM 20 ($7.50). Problem is, the minibus doesnt leave till it is full. I decided to try this, anyway -- sounded easier than the public bus. I wandered over at about 7 am and I was approached by a number of the drivers. Eventually, I got into a shared taxi (with 3 other locals) and we got going very quickly. As promised, it cost me RM 20 for the trip -- very reasonable for a taxi ride all the wait to the gates of the park (even if he did stop several times along the way!)

Accommodation on the Mountain

This is the most critical bit. You will not be allowed to climb Mount Kinabalu if you dont have confirmed accommodation on the mountain for the night of your climb. And accommodation is controlled more-or-less completely by one private company, Sutera Sanctuary Lodges (a very frustrating situation.) It's not easy to get around this situation -- the main entrance to the park is through the Tymphon Gate, literally a gate, manned by park officials, where you have to show a valid park permit.

A few days before I headed to the park, I emailed, then called Sutera (+6-088-889077) to check for availability at Laban Rata, the main lodge on the mountain. (Everybody stays either at rooms/dormitories in Laban Rata or the nearby huts.) I was told nothing was available, but to try back for cancellations. When I called back, they directed me to the Park HQ (+6-088-287887) where, to my surprise, I managed to get a dormitory space in one of the unheated huts (a cancellation, I imagine). I think the moral of the story here is to keep trying, as there are almost always cancellations, and the system is somewhat chaotic.

The stinger here is the cost, RM 385 for me (~$130.00) for one night's accommodation (and 5 included meals!) in a bunk bed in an unheated wooden building -- really an outrageous exploitation of tourists coming to climb the mountain. (In my case, though, I confirmed a space without having to pay anything up front. Usually, you need to pay the full cost of the accommodation in advance, with no chance for a refund if you cancel.) But, I was happy, under the circumstances - now, I could actually climb the mountain, without resorting to anxiously traveling to the park on the day and hoping for a stroke of luck...!

Right: Laban Rata, our accommodations on the Mountain

Entry to Kinabalu National Park

The park entrance is a short 2 minute walk from the main road. There, it's fairly easy to navigate around. (First, however, you have to pay a RM 15 (~$5.00) park entrance fee -- there seem to be a frustratingly large number of sundry fees involved, that eventually add up to a significant cost.


I went first to the accommodation office where they confirmed my lodging for the night, took my RM 385 (which, fortunately, you can use a credit card to pay for), gave me my meal vouchers & directed me to the main visitor center where I had to pay for a permit for the climb (RM 100/$33.00) as well as for a (mandatory) guide.

Left: the dining hall at Laban Rata

I bumped into three other trekkers at the office, and we teamed up to share a guide for the climb - this makes things cheaper - we then paid RM 100/$33.00 between four of us, for the guide. (The so-called guide is another bureaucratic money-making scheme -- we hardly saw our guide, Rowdy, for the entire 2-day climb and Rowdy really made no attempt to "guide" us, but casually set us on our way, then popped up at various stops along the way, languidly smoking & giving us some laid-back words of encouragement. So, it makes sense to join with as many people as possible to share a guide - once the climb begins, you're more-or-less on your own anyway!)

Left: our guide, Rowdy

The Climb

As for the climb itself, not too bad, actually! Really, the logistical side is the hard part. We climbed up to Laban Rata on the first day at a slow, steady pace, starting at about 10 am (I started climbing on the same morning as I arrived from Kota Kinabalu), and arrived at the lodge at about 2:30 pm. After a fairly enjoyable meal at 5 pm, we stayed up to watch the spectacular sunset, then went to bed by 7:30 - 8:00, and woke again at 2 am for "breakfast". We started trekking towards the summit at 2:30 am (most others were either already on their way or almost ready to go by that time.) I had a bit of a rush of blood to the head (and, I was feeling very good) so I started up at a good pace, passing lots of the slower climbers. There were some steep, sheer, rocky sections, but there were fixed ropes along much of this higher section, and I didnt find the going hard. Before I realized it, I was close to the summit by about 4:30 (something of a dumb move, in retrospect - it meant I had an hour-and-a-half to wait before the dawn - I didnt feel cold during the climb itself, but I was soon freezing, waiting for the sun to rise!) Nevertheless, a very satisfying experience, and when dawn finally broke, the amazing vista was worth it...

Day 6 of Trek: Lobuche (4,940m)

After our rest day in Dingboche, we're ready to push on the next morning to Lobuche, our penultimate stop before we get to Gorak Shep, and do our hikes to Everest Base Camp and Kala Pattar. It finally feels like we're getting close to the destination!

At the same time, I've been investigating the possibility of modifying my own trip - making the difficult journey across the Tcho La Pass and to Gokyo, to do the so-called "Everest Circuit" instead of just returning directly back on more-or-less the same route from Gorak Shep, with the rest of the group. Our guide, Buddha, is a bit concerned about the idea of my splitting from the group (mostly, I think, for safety reasons) but he isn't going to stop me. In addition, it appears that some other trekkers are planning the difficult trek across the Tscho La Pass, so I could possibly team up with them.

However, the immediate task is to make it to Lobuche. We start out as usual at ~8:30 am. The morning is bright and sunny. It snowed the night before, so there is blinding snow at both sides of the path. I'm having trouble with a very irritated eye, and the blinding brightness is exacerbating things. I struggle as far as our lunch spot, Thukla (picture above). After lunch, we pass the stone memorials to dead climbers - stark reminders of the risks all around in the Himalayas, even for trekkers.


Above: Lobuche, our destination for the day.

After another couple of hours, we make it to the tea house at Lobuche. For once, the tea room is crowded, with a diverse selection of trekkers. In one corner, a crazy French guy and his guide are finishing off a bottle of wine - an unusual sight in the mountains! I chat with Gary, a slightly eccentric and wild-looking American guy.

Then - suddenly - Bipina appeared to have a melt-down of some kind. She dropped her head in her hands and started to complain. (I didnt take much notice, as I'd already had a week's worth of Bipina's dramatics.) But soon after, she went outside the tea house, into the freezing afternoon, and lay down on a picnic table. A couple of trekkers came running in and said something appeared to be very wrong with her. By chance, there happened to be a doctor in the tea house (Anil, a visiting doctor from Stanford, who was spending time at the Pheriche Clinic). Bipina was brought back in to the tea house and Anil examined her. He said we was fairly sure she had HACE (High Altitude Cerebral Edema) - a very serious altitude-related ailment, where the brain swelled, and there was a very real possibility of death. He said she should be moved to lower altitude immediately but (unbelievably!) Bipina stubbornly refused. Eventually, after much persuasion, she agreed to go down to the Pheriche Clinic (~500m lower than Lobuche.) So, Buddha and one of the porters packed up her stuff and started the long walk with her back down in the freezing evening.

We stayed in the tea house a bit longer, then headed to our cold rooms for the night, all wondering about Bipina, and how serious her condition really was. Yet another wake-up call about how suddenly and unexpectedly these types of problems can arise, for anyone, at high altitude.

Days 4 & 5 of Trek: on to Dingboche (4,358m)

Outside our lodge in Dingboche

Next morning was cold and bright. I woke with a ticklish, irritating cough. Then discovered Neil was suffering with stomach problems. Everyone had some ailment, it seemed. Still, we all managed to get back on the road, heading out of Namche on a different path from the one we took for our day-hike the previous day. We passed through Khunde, and stopped at the hospital that Sir Edmund Hillary helped to establish. (After a few weeks in the area, I came to realize the huge amount Sir Ed gave back to the area, following his successful first ascent of Everest.) Further on, we stopped for lunch at Khumjung (where Hillary had also established a school for the children of the area.) Then day seemed easy so far, but we had already climbed more than 400m, to an altitude of 3,900m.

The hike out of Khumjung was steep and difficult, initially past groups of children and people harvesting potatoes, soon, on our own along a rocky path hugging the mountainside into the distance. In the distance, we could see brilliant Ama Dablam, rising above the fogs that were beginning to roll in. At around 4pm, in the foggy gloom, we arrived in the little village of Mong La, where we stopped for the night at a family-run lodge. The tea room was pleasantly warm, and the family were friendly, hanging out with us, and playing cards with some of the group. I eventually headed to bed to the freezing rooms down a treacherous rocky path (in the absolute darkness, without my headlamp, of course!)

I had another restless night, and I was eager to get up & moving at first light. We had a fairly non-eventful day's hiking, on to Phortse for lunch, then up a fairly steep incline to our day's destination, Pangboche. We were now on the main trail to Everest Base Camp (though we were still passing surprisingly few trekkers along the way.) I was cheered by the warm tea room and the surprising sight of Peets Coffee on the menu!

Peets?!

(It unsurprisingly turned out to be just regular coffee...!) And - I had my first hot shower on the mountains, my first shower of any kind in almost a week. Beans, toast and egg for lunch! Everything very good! (I even had some chang, a local milky beer-like alcoholic drink.)

Next morning's hike up to Dingboche was short. We were at the lodge by 11am, now at 4,358m in altitude -- another rest day at Dingboche, in order for us to acclimatize at this new altitude. Later in the afternoon, snow started to fall -- very unusual for this time of year, apparently.

The following day we set out on another acclimatization day-hike. There were a few inches of snow on the ground and conditions were a bit slippery, so Buddha was very cautious and soon suggested turning back. However, I wanted to push on Nangkartshang Peak so, along with Bakta, I continued to climb up. It proved to be a very difficult (and slightly dangerous) hike - but we eventually got to the top. It was exhilarating -- probably the high point of the trek so far.

Astonishing vistas in all directions, and we appeared to be at almost the same height as Ama Dablam to our left. (We werent, of course - Ama Dablam soars to 6,800m - we were just about at 5,000m!) We raced back down the snowy mountainside & back to the tea house. I felt like a conquering hero on return!

Left: Bakta & me at the top of the peak!

Day 3 of Trek: Rest Day at Namche

Next day was a "rest day" for us. Something of a misnomer, as we actually still had a two-hour hike ahead of us! (The idea, for rest days, is to spend a second night in the same location, at the same altitude, but during the day, to hike higher, then descend back down for the evening. That way, by following the "climb high, sleep low" mantra, we're helping our bodies adjust to the new, higher altitude.)

right: Everest in the distance (second peak from the right - above & left of my finger!)

That being said, one of our group, Bipina, woke feeling weak and nauseous. We started our planned hike - from Namche village up to the Everest View Hotel, where we'd get some tea and (unsurprisingly!) get a view of Everest... I found the going easy - the day was pleasant and warm, and after an initial steep section, we were walking through green meadows, and before long, we could see the Everest View ahead of us. Bipina, however, was really struggling, complaining of a racing heart-rate & general weakness, and she eventually returned down to the village, before reaching the Everest View Hotel. Our guide, Buddha, was clearly concerned about her. (Obviously, we were only 3 days into the long trek - very early to be seeing these kinds of symptoms.)

We hiked down afterwards and spent the rest of the day shopping, drinking espresso & surfing the net (just like home!) However, when I went back to my cold bed for the night, I realized again where I was. In addition, I had a fitful night's sleep -- looks like I'm coming down with something too (though it seems more like a head-cold, in my case, than any altitude-related symptom.)

Day 2 of the Trek: Namche Bazar

We were wakened at 6:30 am next morning by Bakta, our assistant guide in what would become a very predictable ritual, with sweetened black tea, followed a few minutes later with a bowl of warm water each for "washie-washie". (This was the delicate way for them to get us out of bed & on the move in the cold mornings.) Kim, one of out party, is in bad shape - she apparently suffered food poisoning the previous day (or night) and she's weak & has severe diarrhea along the way. Nevertheless, for the rest of us, the first part of the trek is enjoyable, and not too difficult. We crossed some of the high metal suspension bridges (stopping on occasion for the Dzokpio to pass...) and made it to Jorsale for lunch.

Kim was still very weak, and Buddha was discussing stopping at Jorsale for the night to give her a chance to recover. However, I was very eager to push on to Namche, as I as concerned we'd miss out on some crucial acclimatization time if we stopped at Jorsale (~2,800m vs. 3450m. at Namche).

Eventually, she did recover a bit, and we pushed on towards Namche. The way quickly got a lot steeper and wilder. (There would be no more tea houses or lodges all the way to Namche.) We passed a group of older Japanese tourists, some in their seventies & beyond, powering up the hills...! Stopping at an overlook about halfway up, we caught our first sight of Everest, a tiny peak in the distance behind some closer mountains. It still felt remote & unreal.


I continued up with Bakta, as the rest of the group dropped behind. I was feeling the effort, but trudged on for another hour or so, till he pointed out the town of Namche Bazar, arrayed in crescents above us on the hills. It was still a further stiff climb up to our lodge, the oddly-named Hotel Camp de Base, and I crashed out in the tea room on arrival... It had been a tough, eventful day, but finally, it really felt like we were in the Himalayas. The big white mountains seemed to crowd close around the town of Namche.