Guggie Log

Day 8 of Trek: Kala Pattar (5,554m)

2010-05-12T13:36:00.000-07:00

Above: vista from Kala Pattar (with Everest in the center)

Next morning, I wake in the cold at 4:45 AM for the biggest day so far - the demanding climb up to Kala Pattar ("Black Rock" in Hindi) for the famed vista of Mount Everest and the other nearby giants. It's cold in the tea room. I put on my down jacket for the first time in the trek. I drink some sweet black tea while everybody assembles. Finally, we are on our way at 6 AM.

Surprisingly, it doesn't feel cold once we get moving. The hike starts out easy, but soon we are scrambling up some steep slopes. (I'm struggling with my breathing. Ever few steps upward, I need to take a pause to catch my increasingly shallow breath.) Nevertheless, I make it all the way to the top by ~7:30AM. It is bright and sunny by then, but very cold, and a vicious wind cuts across us on the peak.

I take a few photos, foolishly taking off my gloves - it soon feels like my fingers have been frost-bitten! They havent, of course, but it take a long time for them to thaw out... After a few minutes, I start a swift descent down. Going down is easy and exhilarating, and soon enough, I am back in Gorak Shep & back at the lodge. I'm down ahead of the others, so I get some food and pack up for the next hike down.

I have finally decided that I will not go back down to Lukla with the group, but rather will attempt to cross the Tcho La pass & on to Gokyo with Brian & Raj, two trekkers I had met a few days earlier. Buddha reluctantly gave his blessing for this & arranged for one of the porters to deliver my duffel bag to the lodge in Lukla. I loaded everything I needed into my day-pack (including a sleeping bag.) I was now completely self-sufficient, and ready to hike to Gokyo!

Above: with my pack & sleeping bag, everything I needed for the trek to Gokyo and beyond...

The immediate plan was for everyone to trek back down to Lobuche. Then, I'd separate from the group and join Brian and Raj for the hike to Djongla, our night's stop before attempting the Tscho La pass on the following morning. The trek to Lobuche was very straightforward. Then, after lunch, I gave Buddha money for tips for the porters & assistant guide, and headed off with Brian and Raj. The trail quickly started to climb, and conditions deteriorated - a light snow started to fall. We followed the trail along some high ridges, then dropped into a valley & back up to the lodge at Djongla. It was a tiny, cosy place. There, we met 2 other guys who were planning to join us on the trek across the pass: Justin, an American whom I had met earlier, and a young Israeli guy, Leo. After a pleasant evening, I headed to bed early - we were planning to start the following morning for the pass at ~5:30AM. I was happy - it seemed like a good group & I was confident we'd be able to conquer the pass!

Day 7 of Trek: Everest Base Camp (5,360m)

2010-04-24T03:49:00.000-07:00

Above: our porter, after arriving at Gorak Shep

I wake exhausted, in my cold bunk in Lobuche - I had no real sleep. I had difficulty (real or anxiety-driven, it doesnt matter) getting full lungs-ful of air, during the night, and when I did eventually sleep, it was fitful & restless. Despite this, I was feeling ready for the hike ahead. Today, we were headed to Gorak Shep for a brief stop & some food, followed by another hike on to Everest Base Camp, the first of our objectives! If all went according to plan, we'd be at EBC by late morning/early afternoon.

There was no news of Bipina, following her scary departure down the mountain the previous evening. Buddha, our guide, was also still absent. Bakta, his assistant, took the lead, (nervously) giving us our pep-talk for the hike ahead, then led us off towards Gorak Shep. I found the hike very straightforward, and in a couple of hours, we were at our lodge in Gorak Shep. This would be where we'd spend the night - for now, however, I just had a breakfast of some boiled eggs, and got ready for the next hike on to Everest Base Camp. Lots of the people from Lobuche the previous night were in the lodge -- clearly, we were now on the main highway to EBC!

After a short break, we're on our way again. Out the back door of the lodge into a flat, snowy area in the bright sunlight. The going is easy initially, but soon, we're climbing up. The journey is a lot longer and more difficult than I expected. Every so often, we hear loud reports of rockslides and mini-avalanches in the distance. After about two hours, we get to the official Everest Base Camp spot. Just before arrival, somebody picks up a bone that was lying next to the path -- after a bit of consultation, Bakta decides it's a human arm- or leg- bone. (Surely, a climber's bone, thrown up by the relentless glacier.) After an awkward moment, we drop the bone, and shuffle on to the EBC site - a very real reminder of the reality of the Everest climb.

There are lots of people milling about -- including lots of people we recognize from the lodge on the way up. There's a makeshift sign nearby announcing Everest Base Camp. (Nothing official - it looks like it was carted up by some previous trekkers.) Nevertheless, we get some group shots on front of it, as well as some more dramatic photos with the blue of the Khumbu Ice-fall behind us.

There are no signs of any expedition in progress - no tents, porters or climbers - none of the bustle I had expected from watching various TV documentaries and reading books on the subject. We discovered later that a "real" base camp was being set up about 40 minutes further walk along the side of the glacier (in addition - the climbing season was just beginning - no expeditions were in place yet, and porters were just beginning to cart up the huge amount of provisions required for a climb.)

Something of an anti-climax, I have to say. Soon enough, we start our walk back down to Gorak Shep, and make some room for the groups of trekkers still making their way up. Back at the lodge, we settle in for the evening, after a fairly difficult day. Then, to cap off an unusual day, Bipina and Buddha walk in. Bipina seems ok - no more signs of altitude sickness (on the surface, at least.) She apparently felt fine in Pheriche, and she persuaded Buddha to bring her back up and, astonishingly, our guide agreed! I'm flabbergasted! I cannot believe she's dumb enough to risk her life (no matter how small the real risk is) for such a trivial reason. Anil, the doctor, is there too - and he also seems very surprised and concerned. Nevertheless, Bipina stubbornly refuses to stay at lower altitude - she's taking a huge risk to get to the top of Kala Pattar in the morning, a ridiculous decision, in my opinion...

Below: macho, I am, in shorts at Everest Base Camp :)

Kinabalu

2010-04-20T06:28:00.000-07:00

I'm going to take a quick diversion away from my Everest Base Camp chronicle to give a description of my recent climb of Mount Kinabalu (and what it took to actually get to the mountain!)

Before I left, I spent a lot of time online trying to get accurate information about getting to Kinabalu National Park, and getting accommodation on the mountain. A lot of the information seemed to be conflicting and confusing, and I ended up very unsure about whether I could actually make the climb... So I'll attempt to describe how I managed to get to the mountain, and hopefully it'll be of some use to you.

I made a last-minute decision to go to Borneo, Malaysia & climb Mount Kinabalu. About 1 week before, I started making my plans. Not really an advisable way to do things because, in particular, you need to have guaranteed accommodation on the mountain before you'll be allowed to climb, and all the available accommodation is typically completely booked up many weeks in advance. Nevertheless...

The big logistical things I had to think about were:

Flights (to Kota Kinabalu, in Malaysia)
Transport to Kinabalu National Park
Accommodation for the night on Mount Kinabalu. (Mandatory - otherwise, you're not allowed to climb the mountain)

Flights

I found this to be the easy bit. Air Asia, Malaysia's low-cost carrier, have frequent fairy cheap flight to Kuala Lumpur, and on to Kota Kinabalu (the closest city to Mount Kinabalu.) Depending on how far in advance you book the flights, they can be very cheap. I paid ~$100 each for flights from Bangkok to Kuala Lumpur and from Kuala Lumpur to Kota Kinabalu.

Accommodation in Kota Kinabalu

I found a very agreeable and reasonably-priced boutique hotel in the main shopping area in Kota Kinabalu - Hotel Eden 54. I paid about $35.00/night for a very well-equipped small room in a very friendly hotel. (Weirdly, many of the rooms have no windows, but there's free WiFi, and everything is spotlessly clean and modern.)

Transport to Kinabalu National Park

Kinabalu National Park is about 90km from Kota Kinabalu, but it's on a fairly well-traveled route, and there are a few different ways of getting there. I had done my research and had decided to get the public express bus to Renau & get the driver to drop me off at the park. this was a very cheap option, at about RM 15 (~$5.00). However, to get the bus, you first have to get to the main bus station at Inamam, about 10 km out of town. A bit painful. So, I stopped at the local tourist office (on Jalan Gaya, same street as Hotel Eden 54) & asked them about the options. They suggested going to the minibus station, next to Merdaka Field, about 5 minutes' walk away from the tourist office. There, you can get a shared ride in a minibus for about RM 20 ($7.50). Problem is, the minibus doesnt leave till it is full. I decided to try this, anyway -- sounded easier than the public bus. I wandered over at about 7 am and I was approached by a number of the drivers. Eventually, I got into a shared taxi (with 3 other locals) and we got going very quickly. As promised, it cost me RM 20 for the trip -- very reasonable for a taxi ride all the wait to the gates of the park (even if he did stop several times along the way!)

Accommodation on the Mountain

This is the most critical bit. You will not be allowed to climb Mount Kinabalu if you dont have confirmed accommodation on the mountain for the night of your climb. And accommodation is controlled more-or-less completely by one private company, Sutera Sanctuary Lodges (a very frustrating situation.) It's not easy to get around this situation -- the main entrance to the park is through the Tymphon Gate, literally a gate, manned by park officials, where you have to show a valid park permit.

A few days before I headed to the park, I emailed, then called Sutera (+6-088-889077) to check for availability at Laban Rata, the main lodge on the mountain. (Everybody stays either at rooms/dormitories in Laban Rata or the nearby huts.) I was told nothing was available, but to try back for cancellations. When I called back, they directed me to the Park HQ (+6-088-287887) where, to my surprise, I managed to get a dormitory space in one of the unheated huts (a cancellation, I imagine). I think the moral of the story here is to keep trying, as there are almost always cancellations, and the system is somewhat chaotic.

The stinger here is the cost, RM 385 for me (~$130.00) for one night's accommodation (and 5 included meals!) in a bunk bed in an unheated wooden building -- really an outrageous exploitation of tourists coming to climb the mountain. (In my case, though, I confirmed a space without having to pay anything up front. Usually, you need to pay the full cost of the accommodation in advance, with no chance for a refund if you cancel.) But, I was happy, under the circumstances - now, I could actually climb the mountain, without resorting to anxiously traveling to the park on the day and hoping for a stroke of luck...!

Right: Laban Rata, our accommodations on the Mountain

Entry to Kinabalu National Park

The park entrance is a short 2 minute walk from the main road. There, it's fairly easy to navigate around. (First, however, you have to pay a RM 15 (~$5.00) park entrance fee -- there seem to be a frustratingly large number of sundry fees involved, that eventually add up to a significant cost.

I went first to the accommodation office where they confirmed my lodging for the night, took my RM 385 (which, fortunately, you can use a credit card to pay for), gave me my meal vouchers & directed me to the main visitor center where I had to pay for a permit for the climb (RM 100/$33.00) as well as for a (mandatory) guide.

Left: the dining hall at Laban Rata

I bumped into three other trekkers at the office, and we teamed up to share a guide for the climb - this makes things cheaper - we then paid RM 100/$33.00 between four of us, for the guide. (The so-called guide is another bureaucratic money-making scheme -- we hardly saw our guide, Rowdy, for the entire 2-day climb and Rowdy really made no attempt to "guide" us, but casually set us on our way, then popped up at various stops along the way, languidly smoking & giving us some laid-back words of encouragement. So, it makes sense to join with as many people as possible to share a guide - once the climb begins, you're more-or-less on your own anyway!)

Left: our guide, Rowdy

The Climb

As for the climb itself, not too bad, actually! Really, the logistical side is the hard part. We climbed up to Laban Rata on the first day at a slow, steady pace, starting at about 10 am (I started climbing on the same morning as I arrived from Kota Kinabalu), and arrived at the lodge at about 2:30 pm. After a fairly enjoyable meal at 5 pm, we stayed up to watch the spectacular sunset, then went to bed by 7:30 - 8:00, and woke again at 2 am for "breakfast". We started trekking towards the summit at 2:30 am (most others were either already on their way or almost ready to go by that time.) I had a bit of a rush of blood to the head (and, I was feeling very good) so I started up at a good pace, passing lots of the slower climbers. There were some steep, sheer, rocky sections, but there were fixed ropes along much of this higher section, and I didnt find the going hard. Before I realized it, I was close to the summit by about 4:30 (something of a dumb move, in retrospect - it meant I had an hour-and-a-half to wait before the dawn - I didnt feel cold during the climb itself, but I was soon freezing, waiting for the sun to rise!) Nevertheless, a very satisfying experience, and when dawn finally broke, the amazing vista was worth it...

Day 6 of Trek: Lobuche (4,940m)

2010-04-20T05:38:00.000-07:00

After our rest day in Dingboche, we're ready to push on the next morning to Lobuche, our penultimate stop before we get to Gorak Shep, and do our hikes to Everest Base Camp and Kala Pattar. It finally feels like we're getting close to the destination!

At the same time, I've been investigating the possibility of modifying my own trip - making the difficult journey across the Tcho La Pass and to Gokyo, to do the so-called "Everest Circuit" instead of just returning directly back on more-or-less the same route from Gorak Shep, with the rest of the group. Our guide, Buddha, is a bit concerned about the idea of my splitting from the group (mostly, I think, for safety reasons) but he isn't going to stop me. In addition, it appears that some other trekkers are planning the difficult trek across the Tscho La Pass, so I could possibly team up with them.

However, the immediate task is to make it to Lobuche. We start out as usual at ~8:30 am. The morning is bright and sunny. It snowed the night before, so there is blinding snow at both sides of the path. I'm having trouble with a very irritated eye, and the blinding brightness is exacerbating things. I struggle as far as our lunch spot, Thukla (picture above). After lunch, we pass the stone memorials to dead climbers - stark reminders of the risks all around in the Himalayas, even for trekkers.

Above: Lobuche, our destination for the day.

After another couple of hours, we make it to the tea house at Lobuche. For once, the tea room is crowded, with a diverse selection of trekkers. In one corner, a crazy French guy and his guide are finishing off a bottle of wine - an unusual sight in the mountains! I chat with Gary, a slightly eccentric and wild-looking American guy.

Then - suddenly - Bipina appeared to have a melt-down of some kind. She dropped her head in her hands and started to complain. (I didnt take much notice, as I'd already had a week's worth of Bipina's dramatics.) But soon after, she went outside the tea house, into the freezing afternoon, and lay down on a picnic table. A couple of trekkers came running in and said something appeared to be very wrong with her. By chance, there happened to be a doctor in the tea house (Anil, a visiting doctor from Stanford, who was spending time at the Pheriche Clinic). Bipina was brought back in to the tea house and Anil examined her. He said we was fairly sure she had HACE (High Altitude Cerebral Edema) - a very serious altitude-related ailment, where the brain swelled, and there was a very real possibility of death. He said she should be moved to lower altitude immediately but (unbelievably!) Bipina stubbornly refused. Eventually, after much persuasion, she agreed to go down to the Pheriche Clinic (~500m lower than Lobuche.) So, Buddha and one of the porters packed up her stuff and started the long walk with her back down in the freezing evening.

We stayed in the tea house a bit longer, then headed to our cold rooms for the night, all wondering about Bipina, and how serious her condition really was. Yet another wake-up call about how suddenly and unexpectedly these types of problems can arise, for anyone, at high altitude.

Days 4 & 5 of Trek: on to Dingboche (4,358m)

2010-04-15T02:16:00.000-07:00

Outside our lodge in Dingboche

Next morning was cold and bright. I woke with a ticklish, irritating cough. Then discovered Neil was suffering with stomach problems. Everyone had some ailment, it seemed. Still, we all managed to get back on the road, heading out of Namche on a different path from the one we took for our day-hike the previous day. We passed through Khunde, and stopped at the hospital that Sir Edmund Hillary helped to establish. (After a few weeks in the area, I came to realize the huge amount Sir Ed gave back to the area, following his successful first ascent of Everest.) Further on, we stopped for lunch at Khumjung (where Hillary had also established a school for the children of the area.) Then day seemed easy so far, but we had already climbed more than 400m, to an altitude of 3,900m.

The hike out of Khumjung was steep and difficult, initially past groups of children and people harvesting potatoes, soon, on our own along a rocky path hugging the mountainside into the distance. In the distance, we could see brilliant Ama Dablam, rising above the fogs that were beginning to roll in. At around 4pm, in the foggy gloom, we arrived in the little village of Mong La, where we stopped for the night at a family-run lodge. The tea room was pleasantly warm, and the family were friendly, hanging out with us, and playing cards with some of the group. I eventually headed to bed to the freezing rooms down a treacherous rocky path (in the absolute darkness, without my headlamp, of course!)

I had another restless night, and I was eager to get up & moving at first light. We had a fairly non-eventful day's hiking, on to Phortse for lunch, then up a fairly steep incline to our day's destination, Pangboche. We were now on the main trail to Everest Base Camp (though we were still passing surprisingly few trekkers along the way.) I was cheered by the warm tea room and the surprising sight of Peets Coffee on the menu!

Peets?!

(It unsurprisingly turned out to be just regular coffee...!) And - I had my first hot shower on the mountains, my first shower of any kind in almost a week. Beans, toast and egg for lunch! Everything very good! (I even had some chang, a local milky beer-like alcoholic drink.)

Next morning's hike up to Dingboche was short. We were at the lodge by 11am, now at 4,358m in altitude -- another rest day at Dingboche, in order for us to acclimatize at this new altitude. Later in the afternoon, snow started to fall -- very unusual for this time of year, apparently.

The following day we set out on another acclimatization day-hike. There were a few inches of snow on the ground and conditions were a bit slippery, so Buddha was very cautious and soon suggested turning back. However, I wanted to push on Nangkartshang Peak so, along with Bakta, I continued to climb up. It proved to be a very difficult (and slightly dangerous) hike - but we eventually got to the top. It was exhilarating -- probably the high point of the trek so far.

Astonishing vistas in all directions, and we appeared to be at almost the same height as Ama Dablam to our left. (We werent, of course - Ama Dablam soars to 6,800m - we were just about at 5,000m!) We raced back down the snowy mountainside & back to the tea house. I felt like a conquering hero on return!

Left: Bakta & me at the top of the peak!

Day 3 of Trek: Rest Day at Namche

2010-04-13T04:17:00.000-07:00

Next day was a "rest day" for us. Something of a misnomer, as we actually still had a two-hour hike ahead of us! (The idea, for rest days, is to spend a second night in the same location, at the same altitude, but during the day, to hike higher, then descend back down for the evening. That way, by following the "climb high, sleep low" mantra, we're helping our bodies adjust to the new, higher altitude.)

right: Everest in the distance (second peak from the right - above & left of my finger!)

That being said, one of our group, Bipina, woke feeling weak and nauseous. We started our planned hike - from Namche village up to the Everest View Hotel, where we'd get some tea and (unsurprisingly!) get a view of Everest... I found the going easy - the day was pleasant and warm, and after an initial steep section, we were walking through green meadows, and before long, we could see the Everest View ahead of us. Bipina, however, was really struggling, complaining of a racing heart-rate & general weakness, and she eventually returned down to the village, before reaching the Everest View Hotel. Our guide, Buddha, was clearly concerned about her. (Obviously, we were only 3 days into the long trek - very early to be seeing these kinds of symptoms.)

We hiked down afterwards and spent the rest of the day shopping, drinking espresso & surfing the net (just like home!) However, when I went back to my cold bed for the night, I realized again where I was. In addition, I had a fitful night's sleep -- looks like I'm coming down with something too (though it seems more like a head-cold, in my case, than any altitude-related symptom.)

Day 2 of the Trek: Namche Bazar

2010-04-07T04:15:00.000-07:00

We were wakened at 6:30 am next morning by Bakta, our assistant guide in what would become a very predictable ritual, with sweetened black tea, followed a few minutes later with a bowl of warm water each for "washie-washie". (This was the delicate way for them to get us out of bed & on the move in the cold mornings.) Kim, one of out party, is in bad shape - she apparently suffered food poisoning the previous day (or night) and she's weak & has severe diarrhea along the way. Nevertheless, for the rest of us, the first part of the trek is enjoyable, and not too difficult. We crossed some of the high metal suspension bridges (stopping on occasion for the Dzokpio to pass...) and made it to Jorsale for lunch.

Kim was still very weak, and Buddha was discussing stopping at Jorsale for the night to give her a chance to recover. However, I was very eager to push on to Namche, as I as concerned we'd miss out on some crucial acclimatization time if we stopped at Jorsale (~2,800m vs. 3450m. at Namche).

Eventually, she did recover a bit, and we pushed on towards Namche. The way quickly got a lot steeper and wilder. (There would be no more tea houses or lodges all the way to Namche.) We passed a group of older Japanese tourists, some in their seventies & beyond, powering up the hills...! Stopping at an overlook about halfway up, we caught our first sight of Everest, a tiny peak in the distance behind some closer mountains. It still felt remote & unreal.

I continued up with Bakta, as the rest of the group dropped behind. I was feeling the effort, but trudged on for another hour or so, till he pointed out the town of Namche Bazar, arrayed in crescents above us on the hills. It was still a further stiff climb up to our lodge, the oddly-named Hotel Camp de Base, and I crashed out in the tea room on arrival... It had been a tough, eventful day, but finally, it really felt like we were in the Himalayas. The big white mountains seemed to crowd close around the town of Namche.

Headed to Lukla - Trek Begins

2010-04-04T22:27:00.000-07:00

Next morning, we were wakened at 4:45am in order to get to the airport in time for the early morning flight to Lukla, in the Himalayas (scheduled for 6:30am). Lukla is a little Sherpa village, with an airport (an airstrip, really) that serves as the jumping-off point for most of the treks. Weather is a risk factor for these flights. Often, fog or other visibility problems, either in Kathmandu, or en route to Lukla, cause delays or outright cancellation of these flights. Fortunately for us, conditions were good, and we were in the air by 7am.

The plane is tiny, but full (16 people.) The flight is quick, out of Kathmandu and swiftly into the mountains. We seem to just skid by a few mountain passes, then come in for a dramatic, hair-raising landing in Lukla. (The entire trip took less than 45 minutes.)

After stopping at a nearby tea-house to get organized and to team up with our two porters, we are soon on our way on the first leg of the trek. It is relatively easy, with a few steep ascents, but more generally, flat or descending. About 3 hours later, we reach Phakding, our destination for the first day. We have a long, pleasant lunch in the sun - pleased with ourselves at having survived the first day. We're checked in to the curiously named Beer Garden Hotel - very simple twin rooms - a bit cold, with a minimal bathroom in the corridor. About what I expected...

Mar 9: Trek Preparation

2010-04-03T00:23:00.000-07:00

I finally met up with Pradip (my main contact at Mountain Monarch) to get oriented and get prepared for the trek ahead. My initial contact was not impressive. He quickly went through a canned description of the planned trip in the Himalayas, and the group "tour" & pre-trip meal we'd have before heading off. However - clearly - his main concern was to get paid for the outstanding balance I owed him. In addition, as I had arrived two days early, he tacked on an additional charge of $45.00 for each of the two nights -- an outrageous charge for the hotel in question, and something he had given me no advance notice about. I was furious at this underhand manoever.

After bidding goodbye to Pradip till the afternoon (when we'd meet up with the rest of the travelling group) I met up with some older folks from England and New Zealand who had just completed the hike to Base Camp/Kala Pattar and back. They were shattered, and they had a lot of scare stories for me about the cold, the effort involved etc. At 4pm I met up with Pradip again, and with my friend Bipina & with Neil and Kim, the other trekkers, for our formal intro. We were also introduced to Buddha, who would be out guide for the trip, and we received our duffel bags. Beginning to feel a bit excited, at last...!

After getting organized, Buddha took us for a traditional Nepalese meal at a (shamelessly tourist-trap) Nepal Kitchen-style restaurant. I had my first taste of Dal Bhat, and some curious meats (wild boar?) before we adjourned upstairs to watch some Nepalese dance and have a taste of the local Raksi liquor. Good fun!

Mar 8: Kathmandu - Seeing the Sights

2010-04-01T04:23:00.000-07:00

Monday morning, I still have some time to spare before the trek "proper" starts. I bump into Johanna, a fellow trekker at the hotel, and we decide to walk around the city and see some of the more well-known tourist attractions. The hotel manager had given me walking directions to the "Monkey Temple", Swayambhunath, so we decide to head there first.

It's a fairly straightforward walk out of town from Thamel (though the streets are hot and dusty in the morning, and things are chaotic as usual, with honking cabs and motorcycles, and the odd sacred cow(!) wandering about...) The manager gave me a tip to climb up along the streets behind the temple, and when I get closer, I see why -- the main approach is a long, very steep set of steps up to the temple complex. It's still difficult enough walking along the streets towards the back entrance. There's a fenced-off area of trees and parkland, and there are large numbers of monkeys screeching and playing all around. Once we get closer to the top, there are lots of vendors selling typical trinkets, and a large number of tourists and worshippers. There are several temples, and a golden buddha. According to one seller, the temples are sacred to both Buddhists and Hindus.

From the top, there's a good vista over the hazy streets of Kathmandu. We sonon descend down the steep front steps - hawkers on both sides all the way down. I naiively fall for one guy's shtick, and end up with my own "singing bowl", reputed to ease tension and to cure all sorts of other ailments...

Afterwards, we head for Durbar Square through some very grim and desperate-looking streets. We stumble into the square after a walk of less than half-an-hour. The place is crowded with tourists and very aggressive "guides". A 300 Rupee fee is charged. (It's a UNESCO heritage site) However, the place is very chaotic, and I was underwhelmed by the jumble of significant palaces and temples. (The constant attentions of the "guides" following us didnt help.) We eventually escaped to "Freak Street", close-by. Formerly a happening hippie stop (in the 60s and 70s), today, it's a fairly depressing, run-down street that has seen better days.

We walk all the way back to Thamel through narrow streets clogged with markets and shoppers, finally stopping at Kilroy's restaurant for some lunch. An adequate place - which we had almost completely to ourselves. I ordered a beer and the "Bookmaker" Buff steak - served on a sizzling plate, with some fries. The steak was interesting, a bit chewy, but not unpleasant.

Mar 6 - 7: Orientation in Kathmandu

2010-03-31T01:49:00.000-07:00

I was finally situated in my hotel, the Hotel Shakti, a good place a little ways away from the middle of things in Thamel. I was calm (at least, after I got over the fact that the Mountain Monarch trekking guy completely overcharged me -- $45.00 a night for my 2 additional nights at the hotel! Outrageous!! I finally managed to Zen out and focus on the positive...!)

I took a nap & woke up a few hours later, in darkness. Power was out. Apparently, Kathmandu has a schedule of daily power outages for several hours every day - something people get used to, apparently! I tried the shower - cold (possibly related to the power outage...)

I ventured out into the street -- everything was dusty and chaotic -- cars & motorcycles coming seemingly from every side with no apparent concept of lanes or real order (and an incessant honking of horns...) Not too many street lights, so I navigated the rough streets as best I could. I located the main tourist thoroughfare. There were not too many Westerners around, but lots of hawkers selling trinkets, and (in particular) offering hash, seemingly at every corner. After an hour or two, I felt burned out by it all and retreated to bed at my hotel! A hectic first day...

Mar 5 : Arrival - Kathmandu

2010-03-06T03:34:00.000-08:00

After an excruciating (but almost completely trouble-free) full day of travel (i.e. 24 hours!) I arrive in Kathmandu. Exhausting trips on completely-full China Airlines flights from San Francisco to Taipei to Bangkok were followed by a much more pleasant final leg on a three-quarters-empty Thai Airways flight to Kathmandu. The task of getting a visa was painful and chaotic as expected, but it was quick, and soon enough, I had my bags, located the Mountain Monarch guy, and was on my way in to Kathmandu city center.

The city is warm and dusty (though not unpleasantly hot, at this time of year.) Traffic is noisy and seemingly without much order or reason to it. (There is a perpetual din of honking horns and the screeching brakes of motorcycles and taxis.) Nevertheless, we reached our hotel, the Hotel Shakti without incident! The place was impressive-seeming from the outside but really fairly basic. However, my room was a bright corner-room next to a pleasant balcony. Not bad! I was hit with a feeling of relief at having navigated this fairly stressful first leg of the trip, and I promptly crashed out for an emergency nap!

Almost Time for the Plunge

2010-03-03T15:21:00.000-08:00

It's Wednesday afternoon, and I'm making final preparations for the long series of flights to Asia, leaving at midnight tonight. What to bring? It's not easy to plan for both a cold-weather trekking trip and a back-packing jaunt in hotter climes, all on the same trip. And - is a laptop computer an indulgence on this kind of trip, or is it an essential? (I'm leaning towards the latter, but I'm conflicted.) So, my no-compromise compromise is to bring two backpacks, one a day-pack that I can use on the trek to Everest Base Camp, the other an all-purpose travelers pack that can be used for more general schlepping across SE Asia. And yes, the computer is coming -- hopefully, I wont regret that one. The Nepal leg is relatively easy - I can deposit the bulk of my stuff at a hotel in Kathmandu, and bring the minimal essentials along in my day-pack on the trek. Before going onward to Thailand, however, some difficult decisions will need to be made!

So, tonight at Midnight, it's time for a fairly horrendous-sounding 14-hour flight to Taipei, followed by legs to Bangkok and, finally, Kathmandu, getting in at 4 PM local time.

I have signed up with Mountain Monarch trekking company for the Everest Base Camp trek. Far as I can tell, they have a very good reputation (for a local Nepal-based company) and they should have someone at the airport to greet me. Then, a couple of days of sight-seeing (and, presumably, recovery from jet-lag) in Kathmandu, followed by a flight to the higher-elevation Lukla and start of the trek proper, on Sunday.

OK, what am I forgetting...?!

Re-purpose

2010-02-14T23:54:00.000-08:00

Time to re-purpose the blog!

Clearly, the Marathon des Sables will not be happening (at least, not in 2010!) And my running has dwindled down to a few pitiful jogs in a week...! (I have been sick -- lots of extenuating circumstances...! Nevertheless...)

So, time to re-focus the blog towards my preparations for Donal's "Grand Tour", starting with the upcoming trip to Kathmandu & on to Everest Base Camp. I've been very low-key in my preparations (almost ridiculously understated) - so, I think it's time to start a more verbose catalog of the lead-up, then a journal of what I get up to.

Preface complete! I'll be following with some substance about what's to come (and about my none-too-clear mental state...!)

North Face 50k: The Photos!

2009-12-12T23:50:00.000-08:00

Not flattering, but here they are! A couple of shots of the Runner in a fairly agonized-looking state. Nevertheless, documentary evidence of my having survived the ordeal...!

North Face 50k: The Splits

2009-12-06T22:26:00.000-08:00

Not too sure if they are accurate, or exactly what (if anything) they mean, but they sure illustrate the difference between my first Ultra and a typical marathon profile:

Aid Station	Mile	Lap Time	Total Time	Pace
Tennessee Valley	4.0	0:40:56:30	0:40:56:30	10:14
Muir Beach	8.2	0:41:34:60	1:22:37:00	10:40
Pantoll	13.5	1:08:44:00	2:31:22:00	11:12
Old Inn	19.1	1:08:05:00	3:39:28:00	11:29
Shoreline Highway	24.1	0:31:13:50	4:10:41:00	10:24
Finish	32.2	1:42:03:00	5:52:45:00	10:57

addendum: official results

Race Day

2009-12-06T19:45:00.000-08:00

Up very early on Saturday morning (5:30 AM!) for the North Face Endurance 50k race. I was nervous, and still a bit concerned about my lingering sickness. However, too late to worry about it now...!

I packed a bag to drop at the 13-mile aid station in the race -- bottles of coke & milk, some salty chicken bits & (just in case) a change of shirt. Hopefully, the replenishment needed to get me to the end of the race. I drove in the dark to the race start in Marin, guided by attendants with flashlights to the runner parking lot. I joined a group of fairly tense waiting runners, and a school bus delivered us to the starting line, about a mile away. The race village was abuzz with activity, but the whole scene was smaller-scale and more human than my recent experiences in larger marathon events. The 50 mile race was underway, since 5 AM. (Apparently, they had to run with headlamps for the first ~2 hours of the race!) Eventually, at about 7:15 AM we were all lined up & ready to go. Dawn had broken but the day was cool and cloudy. Finally, we were off -- 220 runners in the 50k event!

I started out very slowly, very aware of my tendency in marathons to bolt off too quickly at the start. Fortunately, I was soon in conversation with Tim McGinty, a runner from Cleveland (who described himself as a "Fellow Mick"(!) -- 2nd Generation Irish guy.) Good fun, nevertheless, and as a result, I settled into a very slow, conversational jog for the first half-hour or so. The initial section up the Miwok Trail was a consistent ascent, w ith stunning Pacific views off to the left. (My big surprise about my first Ultra was that you actually get a change to admire the scenery! There isnt the intense time-focused feeling that I've always experienced in marathons.) Quickly enough, I reached the Tennessee Valley aid station at 4 miles, and I passed on through, feeling strong.

The next section was a very cool single-track trail along a ridge next to the ocean, that led all the way down to Muir Beach. I continued to maintain a slow, steady pace, though I could feel an eagerness to pick it up. And I was still maintaining the discipline of walking up part or all of the steeper ascents. It seemed to be a good way of maintaining strength in the quads. I quickly passed through the Muir Beach aid Station (at the 8.2 mile mark) without stopping and passed by the Pelican Inn on to Highway One.

Soon, I was crossing a field and ascending up a long series of switchbacks, finally reaching a section that seemed familiar from my Dipsea Trail hikes (the Coastal Trail.) Quite a grind up a long incline, and eventually I made my way to Pantoll aid station (at 13.5 miles), in need of a break! This was a big stopping point, with a lot of people (runners and onlookers, etc.) milling about. There was a large spread of drinks and snacks (including sodas, chips, sandwiches and chocolate brownies!) My drop bag was there - I opened it and drank half a pint of milk & had a few pieces of the salty chicken. (After the 3rd one, I couldnt digest any more...) After probably 2-3 minutes, I was off again.

After a very brief incline, there was a long descent along some very technical trails into a forested area. I broke into an exhilarating sprint along the trails, passing other runners and walkers & hikers along the way. I was feeling good & it was satisfying to break loose for a mile or two, after a lot of cautious running. Strangely, during this part, for long sections I was running completely on my own, with nobody visible ahead or behind me. Eventually, I came up to the Panoramic Highway, then followed a fairly narrow, fairly flat trail down to the Tourist Club (a trail I was somewhat familiar with.) From there, it was on to the next aid station at the Muir Woods parking lot. (19.1 miles)

After a quick shot of pepsi and a chocolate brownie, I was off again. Feeling a bit worn down now, I was quickly faced with a very tough ascent up a Dipsea Trail section. I walked all the way up, then ran down along a trail through grassy meadows, and finally out on to the highway. Soon enough, I was passing the Pelican Inn again and on to the Muir Beach aid station (at 24.1 miles). Now, I was feeling it -- I could see the long climb back up from the beach.

I ground my way up, part walking and part running, in the company of some 50 mile & 50k runners. Finally, after the long ascent, there was a drop all the way back down to the Tennessee Valley aid station in the distance. I had difficulty running down and I was beginning to feel a bit light-headed. I was finally running out of juice! Finally got to the station (27 miles) and had another shot of pepsi! I asked one of the helpers how far was left to go - 7.4 miles. Surely that cant be right! (It wasnt, as it turns out...!) I walked slowly out of the station & up the long gruelling climb. I was soon joined by a fellow 50k'er, Dennis, and we ran together more-or-less to the end of the race. (A very big help for me!) We walked a lot of the next section, and ran the flatter sections, where we could - a matter of survival at this stage! I could see Tiburon & Sausalito on the left, and the Golden Gate Bridge ahead -- we were getting closer... We reached a final aid station (at ~29.5 miles) - 2.7 miles more, we we told.

There followed a long, fairly easy gradual descent. Very tough still -- there was almost nothing left. Finally, we made out way back off the trails and on to the road. Dennis was fading a bit, behind me -- I ground onwards. Onlookers telling us we had 500 yards to go. And -- around the next corner, the race village and the finishing arch! I jogged down into the meadow, and finished. 5 hours 52 minutes! More than I'd ever run before! Relief and great satisfaction...!

North Face Endurance Build-up/Count-down

2009-12-01T12:57:00.000-08:00

I am now getting apprehensive about the 50k (just 4 days away!) Can I do it?!

In a sign that the jitters are setting in, I have started analyzing the descriptions of the course a bit obsessively. (I'm particularly awe-struck by the astonishing ascents and descents over the course - a net climb of 6,900 feet!) However, I managed to get in another taper-period run today (of ~7 miles) and, although I'm definitely still sick, I feel stronger, and I think I may have the stamina to make it through.

Next step: get my "drop bag" of goodies together so I can drop it at one of the aid stations during the race - could be crucial to my survival!

Marathon Des Sables Food

2009-11-26T13:43:00.000-08:00

Interesting suggestion for the food to carry for the week of the Marathon des Sables race:

http://blog.irunfar.com/2009/03/food-for-marathon-des-sables.html

Hiatus

2009-11-26T13:36:00.000-08:00

Been sick for several days - too sick to even consider a run. (So, I havent run since last Saturday's long run.) I have attended yoga a couple of times this week, so I'm maintaining some sort of activity. Of course, I am in the "taper" period leading up to the Dec. 5th race, but this is more than a taper...! We'll have to see whether the sickness has really debilitated me, or if the period of rest was actually a benefit, when I get the running shoes back on (hopefully tomorrow...)

An interesting experiment on the whole tapering philosophy!

North Face Endurance 50k Prep

2009-11-21T16:51:00.000-08:00

Now it's official: I have managed to gain entry into the North Face Endurance 50k race on December 5th!

Now, question is, have I done enough preparation at this stage to even consider running 50k (i.e. ~33 miles -- considerably more than the 26.2 miles in a marathon, my previous longest run)? I completed another 2-hour run in the Park today (translating to probably 16 miles or so...) Problem is, I'm now almost within 2 weeks of the race, so it's almost time to taper...

So, my tentative strategy for now is to attempt a very humble race -- take it as slowly as possible, walk sections if/when necessary, and do everything possible to get to the finish line without really killing myself.

Today, I also did a test-drive of my new trail running shoes, the North Face Rucky Chucky. Jury is still out -- they certainly feel rigid & seem to grip the road (though roads dont provide a real test for trail running shoes) but I can feel the extra weight, and they seemed to sap my strength a bit as the miles went by.

Mini Meals

2009-11-17T20:30:00.000-08:00

I found an interesting menu of mini-meals (a so-called "idiots' guide"...!) They seem like an interesting way to get in some carbs (and a bit of protein too) or to replenish following a big exertion:

1 cup vanilla yogurt + 1 cup fresh fruit (60 grams carbs)
Bonus Benefit: provides over 40 percent of your daily calcium needs

1 cup orange juice + 1 banana (52 grams carbs)
Bonus Benefit: packs almost 200 percent of the Daily Value for vitamin C

1 slice banana nut bread + 1 cup skim milk (about 45 grams carbs)
Bonus Benefit: gives you 25 percent of the Daily Value for calcium

1 PowerBar energy bar + 8 oz PowerBar Endurance sports drink (62 grams carbs)
Bonus Benefit: provides plenty of sodium and potassium to keep you well hydrated

Smoothie of 2 cups skim or soy milk + 1 1/2 cups strawberries + 2 Tbsp soy
protein (about 50 grams carbs)
Bonus Benefit: contributes about 5 grams of fiber

1 1/2 cups multigrain cereal + 1 1/2 cups skim milk (54 grams carbs)
Bonus Benefit: contains over 100 percent of the Daily Value for iron

1 bagel + 1 banana + 1 Tbsp nut butter (about 75 grams carbs)
Bonus Benefit: provides 12 grams of protein

(from active.com)

Moab Red Hot 50K!

2009-11-10T21:26:00.000-08:00

I had a slight rush of blood to the head, and signed up for the Moab Red Hot 50K+ race in February. I've no idea at this point whether I'll be able for it, or logistically hot I'll manage it, but I'm optimistic!

Nov 10: Gaining Confidence

2009-11-10T19:45:00.000-08:00

I'm running more, and gaining confidence (and strength, I think.) I completed the run from home (Hayes & Central in SF) all the way to Stinson Beach via the Golden Gate Bridge, Sausalito, Mill Valley and the Dipsea Trail, with only a few limited stops. Very happy with it -- fairly comfortably ran 22+ miles (though, to be completely honest, the punishing inclines in the Dipsea Trail were torturous.)

At this point, I'm not at all sure I will follow through on the commitment to do the Marathon des Sables (presuming that the opportunity actually comes up.) However, I am becoming a lot more eager to test myself on some ultra trail runs. As I said, I have already added myself to a waitlist for the North Farce Endurance Challenge 50k race on December 5th. Not sure if that's going to work out. But, failing that, I am considering the Coastal Trail Runs trail marathon the following week. This should be a similar type of race (albeit not with as much associated coolness!)

Oct 24: Saturday Running

2009-10-24T13:17:00.001-07:00

I had a very good run through the Park and around Lake Merced today. Covered about 17 miles, the longest I have run in over 6 months, but it felt fairly comfortable. Things are looking better...!

So now, I'm getting a bit more ambitious! Would it be possible to run the North Face Endurance 50k run in early December? It's a big ask, but it may be possible to do it at a very easy pace (and it would certainly give me a taste of what Ultra running -- and runners -- is all about.) Thinking about it...

Marathon des Sables Status Update

2009-10-22T21:49:00.000-07:00

Got on to another waiting list for the Marathon des Sables (via the dreamchasers outfit.) Apparently, the waitlist is very short and there's a very good chance I'll make it for the 2010 race! (And... I should get a definitive answer by the end of the month.) Surprisingly encouraging -- maybe the race is on...?

To October 20: Getting back on the Horse!

2009-10-20T19:55:00.000-07:00

It's been a bit of a struggle for the past couple of weeks. Plenty of excuses, but - bottom line - I havent been doing enough running and I havent accomplished too much.

Last week marked the beginning of a recovery of sorts - I was on vacation in Hawaii, and I squeezed in a few runs during the week: one good 6.5 miler along Alii Drive in Kailua (along part of the route used for the Kona Ironman the previous week) then a couple of fairly demanding runs in, of all places, the grounds of the Four Seasons resort at Hualalai. Not a great amount of mileage, but some exposure to running in fairly hot conditions. (On each of the days, the temperature was north of ~80F.)

This week has started well, with a few solid runs back & forth to work interspersed with some beneficial Yoga sessions. May soon be time to up the mileage...!

But - most significantly - still no update on my status at the MdeS. It really is quite hard to get motivated properly without a definite, confirmed objective.

To October 3: First Week's Running

2009-10-04T11:31:00.000-07:00

It felt like a good, informal, first week. For the first time in several months, I completed more than a couple of runs in the week. I managed to run to and from work three times during the weekdays - easy-enough runs of roughly 3 miles each way. I used the backpack to carry my work clothes - making the runs a bit more challenging. Slowly but surely, though, I got used to running with the pack. (Interesting, though, my running style is quite obviously different with the pack, with a greater stress on the quads.)

On Saturday, I completed a fairly long run of ~13 miles through the Presidio and over the Golden Gate Bridge. It felt relatively comfortable - again, I credit some of this to the recent Bikram yoga sessions. I feel generally stronger, and my breathing seems better, even while under stress. A final run on Sunday morning rounded it off, adding up to ~35 miles for the week, more than I have run at any time since before the Boston Marathon. Encouraging - hopefully, I can maintain it in the coming week.

Another declaration of my seriousness about the MdeS - I have finally completed and submitted my formal application. The wheels are now in motion -- let's see what happens...

Run with the Pack!

2009-09-28T18:15:00.000-07:00

So I ran to work today, first, to try to get back to the habit of running, and second (and equally important) to try to get a feel for running with a back-pack (essential if this Marathon des Sables attempt is to be at all realistic.) Fortunately, my run to work is short, less than half-an-hour (though fairly tough and hilly.)

The good news: I felt strong, if a bit fatigued. The bad news: the pack, small as it was, made a significant difference to the run. I managed to fill it completely with my clothes and shoes for the working day, as well as a towel and shampoo. The little pack was bulging at the seams. More concerning, my running experience was quite a lot changed. I could feel the weight of it on my back, and my running gait felt a lot more awkward. I could also feel a much greater pressure on the quads. Fortunately, this pack sits very nicely on the back, and once the various straps are cinched, there is very little movement. However, the 30 minute run to work felt significantly more difficult with the back-pack. (Although, I ran home again this evening, so the pack is manageable.) It'll be interesting to see, though, how I adapt on longer, more challenging runs.

First Preparation Run

2009-09-27T14:40:00.001-07:00

I've taken a first baby step - a seven-mile run to the Presidio and back. A very small step, but on a warm San Francisco day, I felt very comfortable (despite not having done any real running for some time.) I credit it to my experiment with Bikram Yoga in the past couple of weeks. I really feel that, in a short space of time, my breathing has improved, and my core is strengthened, and it has made my running easier. (Still - baby steps. Let's see how the next few runs go.)

More preparation: I have purchased my first "running" backpack (a pack dedicated to trail running. Apparently, it sits tight on the back, no jiggling, and no sweat on the back. We shall see...)

So, next week, the plan is to do some slightly more ambitious runs, to/from work, using said back-pack. A good test...

Marathon des Sables

2009-09-24T20:23:00.000-07:00

I am now actively trying to get entry into the Marathon des Sables. (Not an easy thing, as the race is usually booked up a few years in advance.) However, I have managed to get onto a waiting list -- I am 12th in line! - and there is apparently a very good chance that I'll make the race, as there are typically a lot of late cancellations.

So, what started as a whim and a fairly fantastical idea is becoming more of a reality. Though, what it does mean is that I need to start running! The race happens in early April '10, so I still have plenty of time to prepare. I have already begun considering long races and ultras (a new thing for me) as preparation for the race. I have noted the following possibilities in the next few months:

10/3/09	Gold Country Trail Run 50K/20M/25K/8M	50K/20M/25K/8 Mile	Auburn	CA
10/10/09	Mammoth Lakes Ultra Marathon 50K	50K/25K	Mammoth Lakes	CA
10/24/09	Jenkinson Lake Fall Trail Runs	50K/24M/16M/8M	Sly Park(Pollock Pines)	CA
10/31/09	Helen Klein Ultra Classic	50K/50M/30K	Sacramento	CA
11/14/09	Folsom Point Trail Runs	50K/25K/7M	Folsom Lake	CA
12/5/09	The North Face Endurance Challenge Series	50K/50M	San Francisco	CA

Not too sure how far I'm going to go with this, but I have already put down a £500 deposit, and I am slowly but surely beginning to treat it as a real, serious, project. (And - no small matter! - Madonna may be taking part!)

Day 5: to Karanga Camp (3930 m)

2009-09-17T07:54:00.001-07:00

The morning is cool, but not as cold as on previous mornings. Today, we have to scale the fairly imposing Barranco Wall. Bruce talks of starting early, to beat the traffic of other groups and porters all headed in the same direction, but we get started at 9 AM as usual. We immediately get caught in a crush of porters and other hikers on the way up.

We quickly reach a steep rock wall -- the Barranco Wall, and we start to hike up. Parts of the climb require a bit of scrambling. It's fairly tough but exhilarating. Everyone enjoys it, despite the fast that porters are climbing past and around us all the way. (They are taking astonishing risks to get to the top of the Wall with their loads.)

However, we get to the top inside an hour and take in the astonishing vista around us, with the peak and glaciers directly above us.

Left: taking pictures at the top of the Barranco Wall.

Take off again along a trail of scree and pebbles. We soon see the Karanga Camp in the distance ahead of us. This seems easy. However, Bruce tells us that we have a big descent into a canyon and an ascent back up before we reach it.

We struggle through the difficult, rather dangerous descent and then make our way up to the camp. (Bruce tells us that the descent is the most difficult part of the entire Lemosho Trail, even more difficult than any part of the hike on Summit Night -- but we're a bit skeptical...)

Anyway, in to camp by 1:30 PM and we're done for the day!

I nap for a while and we have dinner around 6 PM -- soup and some deeply fried chicken. Nobody is hungry. Bruce comes in and starts to talk about Summit Night (coming up soon -- late the following night.) Sounds like it's going to be very cold and I'm not at all sure I have enough layers for it. I'm getting concerned!

Bed again by 8:30 PM. I sleep well till about 4 AM despite a distinct slope on the tent floor! Up again at 6:15 AM and getting prepared for the big day ahead.

Day 4: to Barranco Camp (3940 m)

2009-09-17T07:53:00.002-07:00

Wake again at 6 AM -- it's freezing outside! We get moving quickly. Our aim is to reach the Lava Tower by lunch, the highest point (at 4600 m) we'll reach before summit night. I'm finding the going to be fairly easy and I have no symptoms of altitude sickness.

Left: the Lava Tower

I ask Bruce about the Abramovich thing -- he confirms that the guy is indeed on the mountain & he registered at the camps along the way. (Apparently, lots of other celebrities have also been there recently. He mentioned Arjen Robben and Guus Hiddink from Dutch football - just a few weeks earlier, and even Justin Timberlake! Suddenly, my great Kilimanjaro climb doesn't seem so impressive.) Even the US Marines come here occasionally -- cutting off all telecommunications traffic on the mountain when they need to update their website...!

We reach the Lava Tower by about 1 PM. The early heat is giving way to much colder conditions, as it clouds over. After leaving the Lava Tower, it is a steep descent down almost all the way to Barranco Camp. There are rocky sections, and our guide, Fuat is racing down, seemingly in a hurry to reach the camp. Dave takes a tumble on the way down, and bruises his thigh. (Furtunately, it seems to be a fairly minor injury.)

We reach a grove of cactus-like plants (senecio plants) that grow to be up to 8-10 feet tall.

Right: Nitin next to a senecio plant

We finally reach Barranco Camp around 3:30 PM. It is a small city of tents with a view over the plain and the city of Moshi, and with the Kili peak looming overhead.

Left: the summit from Barranco Camp

There are lots of people at the camp - a number of different routes meet here, including the Lemosho and Macheme routes. I wander around after tea, and meet some folks from San Francisco (almost in the same neighborhood as me...) Dinner is getting a bit monotonous at this stage - another peculiar concoction of noodles and some sort of beef stew/curry. It's a bit warmner at this camp than it has been the past few nights. However, I still quickly get in to my tent & I'm asleep again by 9 PM. I wake briefly at about 3 AM - when I get out of the tent, I can see the lights of the city of Moshi below, and a bright sky of stars above.

Day 3: to Moir Hut (4200 m)

2009-09-17T07:53:00.001-07:00

I stick my head out of the tent at 6 AM, and there's frost everywhere! It soon warms up - it is very warm by 7:30 AM. I'm filthy - yesterday's trail and the campsite are covered in a fine dust that gets everywhere.

We consider Bruce's options and decide to head for the Moir Hut, the higher destination. Soon, we're off, on Day 3 of the trek. Today's terrain is more desert-like, similar to the Californian desert.

Everyone in the group seems to be in good shape, though some in the group are complaining about side effects from the Diamox medication we all took (that prevents or alleviates altitude sickness.) Dave is complaining about tingling sensations in the hands and feet. (We've started to refer to it as "doing the Diamox dance"...!)
Left: Dave (left) and Nitin (right)
Below: Donal (lying down) & Daniela

We stop for lunch in an open, rocky area, around 1:15 PM, and we have the (by now) usual lunch of soup and sandwich (consisting of carrot and some mystery fish). Going again, we trek through a rocky passage, and along a narrow ledge. Eventually we see the campsite in the distance -- a good thing. Some in the group are struggling a bit. Bruce tells me the camp, Moir Hut, is also called Fischer Camp, in honor of Scott Fisher, the famous climbing guide who lost his life on Everest in 1996.

Left: Bruce and Fuat looking at the elephant skull at Moir Camp.

We're all tired but ok. We take a brief break and get dinner in a wind-swept dining tent. (Chicken! Though bizarrely small little wings and thighs...) There is a crazy duststorm blowing and the dining tent is getting engulfed in dust (and very cold.) We finish off quickly and go straight to bed.

We hear an interesting detail from Bruce: apparently, Roman Abramovich is also hiking the Lemosho Trail, and is 3 days ahead of us. Interesting...

Day 2: to Shira 1 Camp (3500 m)

2009-09-17T07:51:00.000-07:00

Good breakfast of fried eggs. Get on the way by 8:30 AM through forested terrain that's quite different from yesterday.

Left: our guides, Fuat, the assistant guide (or Fortune, or Fortunata! -- Arsenal man, and also apparently a bit of a ladies' man in Moshi) on the left, and Bruce, our guide, on the right.

Feeling good -- Bruce sets an easy pace. We stop along the way to see an eagle eating a catch up above us. The terrain gets drier as we continue ascending. Eventually we reach the top of a ridge and can look out over the Shira Plateau below. In the distance we get a view of Kili under cloud, our first sight of the mountain peak. We descend down on to the plateau - we can see the campsite in the distance. We finally get in to camp at around 4 PM - a fairly early day. The tents have already been set up by the porters.

Fairly mediocre dinner of rice and a very suspect fish. It is freezing in the tent, worse outside. Bruce discusses our options for the following day - we have the choice of heading for a lower or a higher camp the following day. The advantage of going to the higher one is that we'll spend a night at much higher elevation (4200 m), and have a better chance of acclimatizing. We go outside and see a field of brilliant stars. It is too cold, though, so I flee to bed. I try to read for a while but I quickly fall asleep. I have a fitful night's sleep, and I an awake again by 6 AM.

Day 1: to Mti Mkubwa Camp (2750 m)

2009-09-17T07:50:00.000-07:00

After arrival at Kilimanjaro Airport, I passed easily through customs and immigration, and my bag arrived quickly and safely -- big relief! (I think getting the Tanzanian visa in advance saved on some big delays.) There was a scrum of guys waiting with hand-written signs, once we exited. Eventually, we located the guy holding the "Zara" sign - he would be our driver to Moshi. (It turns out that the US trekking company, "Ultimate Kilimanjaro" subcontracts everything in Tanzania out to a local outfit called "Zara Tours". Zara would be managing all aspects of the trip from here till I returned to the airport at the end.) A number of other travelers were rounded up and we were on our way to Moshi to the hotel, the Springlands Hotel.

The room was ok - bit hot and small, and the shower didnt work at all, but these were minor details. I got a beer and a trademark cheese and tomato sandwich, and tried to prepare for the following day. A group of Irish guys nearby were discussing their coming trip. There was a general air of activity and movement in the place. I was ready to go with the hike...

The next morning, after breakfast, I was packed and waiting at the main entrance with a bit group of other travelers. There was a general sense of mild chaos and nobody seemed to know exactly what was going on. Eventually, we were all assigned to different groups and loaded onto vans. (In my group's case, we all squeezed on to a beat up Land Rover -- it seemed we had to travel across some very rough terrain to get to our starting point!) We were also introduced to our guide, Bruce, who would be leading us along the Lemosho trail to the summit and back.

We head off towards our starting point, the Londrossi Gate, but we soon stop to get "supplies" at a local supermarket. (Seems like a bit of a scheme to throw some tourist business to their friends at the supermarket.) In any case, I oblige, and get a packet of Ginger Snap biscuits for the outrageous price of $4.

Off again, the road surface gets increasingly rough. We pass out of the populated areas on to dirt roads with scrub & rocks at either side. The driver stops along the way to point out herds of zebra and wildebeest near the roadside -- we get right up to them!

Finally, we get to the Londrossi Gate and get some lunch. The porters join us in a large covered truck. They take our larger duffle bags and we drive again, over a horrendous rutted road, to the start of the trek.

Soon enough, we get there. We get our day packs on and I try out my walking poles for the first time -- it's 3:30 PM and we're finally started on the first day of the hike.

The pace is fairly easy, though my stomach is not feeling strong. All around there is rich vegitation and fairly dense forest. We can hear the croaking of monkeys all around. Occasionally, we see a few -- colubus monkeys with black and white coloring and long tails, a bit like flying skunks (they are flitting around in the trees above). We finally make it to our first camp, Mti Mkubwa (Big Trees) after about 3 hours.

Our tents are set up as is our personalized outhouse! we get a dinner of leek soup, potatoes and some fairly tough but very tasty spicy beef. There are strong wafts of pot around the campsite - this is clearly the porters' way to "acclimatize". It's very cold outside so I get into bed in the tent by 9 PM and immediately drop into sleep. I wake again at 4 AM, and am roused again from a fitful sleep by a monkey chorus at about 6 AM. Time for Day 2...

Bound for Tanzania

2009-09-17T07:49:00.001-07:00

I had booked a hiking trip to go to the top of Mount Kilimanjaro using the Lemosho route. After much planning, and anticipation, it was time... I was on my way!

The trekking company we selected was Ultimate Kilimanjaro, middle-of-the-road in terms of cost (not the cheapest but certainly far from the most expensive.) They have a good reputation, as far as we could tell, from online comments, and word-of-mouth. (I was paying $1875.00 for the 8 day trip - not cheap, but a lot is provided for you on the trip, including accomodation and food, and porters to lug all the baggage up the mountain!)

And the Lemosho route was chosen also based on positive online comments. In particular, the Lemosho route is longer, 8 days, compared to 4 and 5 days for some of the other routes, and as a result there should be more time to acclimatize to the altitude and less likelihood of suffering debilitating altitude-related problems. (This was a big deal for me - my previous attempt at a high-altitude hike, or Longs Peak in Colorado, ended badly for me. I hiked too fast to high altitude without being adequately acclimatized, and I started to get crushing headaches, had no appetite, and eventually called it quits and descended without getting to the summit of the mountain.) Another reason for Lemosho was that it was described as the most scenic of the routes, passing through a diverse variety of different terrains and climate zones during the 5/6 days before the final Summit night.

Kilimanjaro is a long way from the States, but most people travel there using the same route -- flight to Amsterdam, then a direct flight from Amsterdam to Kilimanjaro Airport (which is just a couple of hours away from the main gate of the Kilimanjaro National Park. I flew to Amsterdam, and spent a day there in an attempt to break up the very long journey. The next stage, the flight to Kilimanjaro, was the crucial one. There were many stories of luggage being lost on that route (indeed, I met a few people during the trip whose luggage had been lost or delayed) so I tried to organize things so that I had all the essentials on my person or in my carry-on - my hiking day-pack. (Particularly, my boots and my warm clothes for the final ascent - very difficult to replace if they went missing.)

In any event, the flight to Kilimanjaro went without a hitch and all my baggage arrived without problem. (It was surprising for me how many tourists were on he plane and how few Tanzanians - I had been expecting a slightly different experience, flying to Africa, but we could just as easily have been flying to JFK, judging by the passengers...)

10 PM - I had landed in Africa, and I was ready for the trek. (Now, things seemed exotic, and I was excited and looking forward to it.)

Kilimanjaro

2009-09-17T07:46:00.001-07:00

Having just returned from hiking up Mount Kilimanjaro, I'm going to attempt to describe the trip, my experiences during the hike, and my recommendations and suggestions for any of you planning to attempt the climb. It was a memorable, challenging journey for me, and one that's finally prompting me to start a blog!